Kangaria to Sonbarsa

From Khagaria I walk northeast. Soon after coming out of the town, life becomes beautiful. Small street. Fresh air. Nature.

After 10 to 12 km at a fork in the road more or less under a big Bodhi tree stands a lonely policeman with his motor cycle. He wants to control me but he is not sure what to do. He calls me a few times back. Finally he follows me and gives me signs that I should go south to another police station. I refuse. My way is after a while north. At another crossroad I call Tabish, to explain the policeman, what I am doing. But no success. A police car with 6 comes, 3 armed and two more wepponed with bamboo sticks. No chance for a explanation there, so I have to get in the police car.
At the head quarter the commander in charge speaks English and has a lot of questions. He wants to bring me a bit further on the main road and let me walk a route along the highway. After a lot of explanation, he understands, that I have to continue my way, where I stopped.
A lot of other people show up in between to have some papers signed.
Suddenly he shows respect and says ‚I salute you‘. ‚Do you want a saftety guard in your way?‘ ‚No, it’s mostly a hinderance, why?‘ ‚There are some criminals‘.
After another while, a policeman on his bike brings me back to the place, where they picked me up nearly 2 hours before. But, what I did not know,  he is the safety guard.

He followes me the next 8km and pushes a lot on my speed. We walk over some railway bridges. Partly there is a driving way for vehicles, but super muddy. But the main and only walking way is in the railway bed, which is also used by some motor cycles. The bridges are crossing a river and several side arms and dead arms of the river. And it is just gorgeous. Lots of women and men walk this way, carrying gras or goods on there head. Silent waters everywhere around. At one point, at the last bridge I miss to use a very unique wooden ferry. But the police man has arranged, that I can cross the last bridge, which is in construction, through the metallic grid, just before the cement gets filled in.
I am so happy that the safety guard has fulfilled his job (not forgetting to ask me for money, but I refuse), so I can have a rest at the river bank. It’s already 2.30pm and I had only a brief breakfast. But in the other side, two further police men where waiting. One of them has also a bamboo stick. I have to insist, that I need a break. Soon after a crowd of 15 including the police is standing around me. This is not a situation where you really can rest in….. so….after some bites…. getting up…. continue to walk.
Lucklily the both let me go my way by myself after some km.

Between two ditricts there is often, beside the bigger highways, not such a good infrastructure. So, here I can benefit. It’s just a sooo beautiful scenery. Waterholes with buffaloes with there shepherds are bathing. Silent lakes or other water sources. Greenery everywhere. No traffic and even zero rubbish. Fresh air and paintready sceneries. Simple villages with bamboo hats and cows or buffaloes in front of these homes….. Everything is just a photoshot.
Now, I still have no time, because the day is coming to an end and I have still a long way to go. Also I don’t know how to catch the scenery best. But I enjoy with every step, very much.

In days like this I somehow walk as in trance, my body produces some adrenalin or other chemical substance, what makes me manage the day. In the end it will be 36 km,  which I planed to walk in 2 days. It will take me hours in the evening to come down from that ‚drug‘ and let me sleep late. Maybe it can be also discriped as some spiritual power.

I meet so many people on the way. Short conversations. Where you from? What are you doing? Can I have a selfie?
And various different emotions fly to me, also because of Corona time. Sometimes people are rushing quickly away, because of fear. ‚Why you are coming here, (bringing the virus)‘ someone said to me. Then again happiness to see a foreigner? Couriosity.
Lots of different emotions slosh to me. Within minutes often. And often with a lot of people involved.
Bihar people always develop some strange feelings, about an hour or so before the night is coming. They have fear in there eyes and behaviors. It’s quite uncomfortable.

Also with the Indian way of talking it’s sometimes intense. Indians learn at school a type of command tone in some cases. For example when the say ’sit down‘ ‚come here‘ or ‚go‘ or ‚you can go‘.  And it’s even sometimes or often ment nicely, but for me it feel often close to unfriendly. It’s just in the culture. It’s not a bad intention at all, mostly, but sometime it feels rude. I have always to be aware, not to judge.

The last kms to Sonbarsa are crazy. It did not rain to much yet. But some ways are overflooded. Walking through lots of mud I finally reach a better street to town.
But, in town, not to believe how horrible the street condition is. People have to walk through mud and water, even in the market area. Rubbish everywhere…. just really horrible conditions, can’t be much worst.

In Sonbarsa 3 nice young men help me. All day long, nearly no-one could speak english. Sunil, Prem and Ananda, and others speak good english, help me to find a place to stay. It feels somehow, there where ordered to help me, so quick that they came my way. I end up in a accomodation at a temple area.