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A vision arisesThe last two walking days, to much traffic on the road. Season is getting high…. to much honking…. no clue where Sunil is, he must have passed…. One afternoon in Pank, I told the both ladys Sonem and Tshimet, who helped me with my special food wishes, I have to go to my room (dormitory) to think….. I had no clue what that would mean. I set down on my bed and put my palms together, suddenly a flow starts coming through me… it is less thinking, than recieving information, sorting it in the open mind…. ok. I reached Pank and the upcoming plains…. Sunils intention to see me on the way brought me until here. Now I can leave the street. I can go to Sangtha (away from the street) to cut the way to Dehbrink (45km on the road) in two parts. Looking on the map I slowly understand I can continue from Sangtha further northnorthwest towards a village Lungmoche and Dat, then to Tsokra to finally reach after KarpoLa Pass a more common hiking trail towards Leh. All the villages are marked on my map with a red square, which means, people are living there permanently. A local shows up, looking at my plan, realize what I want to do, says ‚yes‘, to the same time leaving the room, telling ‚I come back’…. what he did not, also the following day. So I ask Sonem and Tshimet, to look over my plan…. There are not so super locals, but after a while, they agree, that there are people in the villages. Tshimet even has a brother in Kharnak, which is on my maps.me online map just a km away from Sangtha. I can stay there for a night. She has another adress from Tsokar (my map says Tsokra) where I can stay on a camp ground renting a tent. I waited all the time to find someone to go together on hiking trails, but all the people who promised to come, did not come, wether other people came insted. So it’s time to go alone. And I am confident. I found a nice route, which I can manage, even though it has five around 5000m passes. There are enough villages on the way, where I can get potatoes or eggs to fill up my food storage. Mainly nuts and some other snacks I bought at the Dhabas. Raisins for 3 or 4 days are left. And a bit honey and chick peas. The map I have is a hiking map, showing all the structures of the mountains and rivers. The trails are not marked in any way. From Pang I leave through a short cut from the valley towards the plains. And its just great to be up there, looking around to all the mountains and down into the river valley. Going north it’s just beauty, here are wild and stay horses to witness. They live from the little grass here. After 12 or 14km I stop looking back at that fabulous mountain, which makes coming from north a illusion. It seems, that everyone has to turn in a 90 degrees angle, but in fact the cars can go nearly straight towards Pang. After I turned to my trail the mountain turns with the sun light kind of violett /blue, on the north side he has a kind of turquoise valley formation and beside a kind of huge bowl, best for a nice ceremony. I have to climp up and down the 4.950m SparmurLa Pass. From far I can see Sangtha and it seem, that there are nice Tibetian/Ladakh houses. Beautiful. After all the Dhabas a nice Tibetan village. At 5.30pm I reach the village. The illusion was perfect. 11 stupas are lined up at the small Zara river, combined with a huge altar of ‚Om mani padme hum‘-stones…… the stupas made a image of Tibetan houses, but…. on the other side, where the houses are, simple stone houses and …. they are all empty. Not a single being there, not a single animal to find… lots of footprints, only from animals….. What happened? …. A second village ‚Kharnak‘ is not to see. What to do? …. Lungmoche is 11km away….. I decide to go there. But I have to hurry up…. I maid arrive there when it’s dark….. Through a dry river valley I follow the trail north. Some Jeep was driving here earlier. Both sides steep rocks with caves, ideal to use them as meditation caves…. I hurry up From here I could turn east to Dehbring, but this I will do only, if there is also no-one in Lungmoche. That would be a long walk, 11km to Lungmoche and another 28 or so from Lungmoche to Dehbring. I see so many animals, more wild horses, some wolf’s, and so many holes of marmots…. The way is again rest to find, from Dehbring Lungmoche is also connected by a small diet road – but not a single car on it. …. The river is totally dry in Lungmoche, so in this case I completely understand, why this village is abandoned. Clearly it’s to see they have cows here. The dry shit is piled ….. I’m the moment I have to decide to go to Dehbring or continue towards Dat a car drives trough the village towards Dat. I can’t see the driver, it happens to quick, I am just not prepared for this happening… the only car I will see that day….. But I conclude….. ok, the car goes in direction Dat, that means, there must be people in Dat. It’s about 25km to Dat. And I have to cross another 4.950m ‚YarLa Pass‘. So my direction is north north west. Along all the walking way up, people build a wall, 2km up, 2km down, obviously to fill them up later with ‚mani-stones‘. What an effort…. and what an effort to get up that pass…. (from Lungmoche there is also a road connection to Dat, which end there – and not a single car, truck or human on it) The quality of that road is quite good, so I guess the Gompa monks from Dat have quite a influence on that. Beside the road again blocks of ‚mani-stones‘ at least every km. Coming down from the pass, there is a stone sorting mashine and I can’t see from the far, if this mashine is working or the belts just move by the wind. I don’t see a single human all the way. The mountains shine in different colours, from black to brown and gold, green and yellow, partly changing by the sun light….. just beautiful…. Dat has three village parts, Datgo (Dango) and Dat (Shenen) and Dat Gompa and again, by my big surprise, not a single human here. I just can’t believe it. The third village, and not a single human, only this one car, which I saw. Again villagers had prepared there ’not being there‘ by decorating there animal wall shelters and houses by putting black sheep fjell on top, to keep other animals away. And they left there dogs… maybe 6 or so…. they tried to defend there territories. … at the Gompa I thought to find some or at least one monk…. no….. only two dogs making really trouble to come closer to the temple, which was anyway closed. They had a solar power station, which maid do it for all the people… everything looked very much care taken…. who feeds the dogs?…. where is the car I saw going here?…. and not driving back….. the river flows good here and I see a lot of grass in the river bed and beside….. how can it be, that really no-one is here?…. mostly someone does not agree with a solution, that everyone has to leave…….???? Anyway, there is no-one. … some buildings are open And another question is still not solved, where is this Kharnak, where I have the adress from….. a little sign I got in the evening by arranging me ‚bed’…. on one of the kartons I put underneath my body as a matress I saw written ‚Kharnak’……?…. Just in the moment when I was sitting down for a shit, a truck comes along. The driver, Saman stops. He has 3 guys with him and a 2000l water tank in the back. They are going to Dat to get water. They can take me over the pass, when they come back. Great. So I continue my way. After 2h that come back. I have to jump on the back of the truck, companion of the water tank, which moves by going to raff threw some street holes towards me…. The vision I am told to keep the hands in this way together and continue walk, but my arms were hurting with the backpack on my shoulders, I just had to rest. I set down….. diguesting what I realized….. I walked the way to Dehbrink, reached there a little later than sunset. I stopped at Mangzul/Dehbrink at the nomads camp, to rest for a couple of days. Tilles, one of the Nomads could explain, where the villagers are. All went to Zara, close to Dehbrink, because in there villages they had a ‚problem with the grass‘. They will be back in there villages in 10 days. The locals say, no tree grows on the plains….. In Rumtse, on the way to Leh, on 4.190m are growing trees. Tsokra is on elevation level 4.200m. Dat and Datgo are on elevation level 4.300m. Sangtha is on 4.400m. Lungmoche a little bit higher. Greenhouses, partly mud green houses are a big success in the area a bit lower. Some years earlier people in the Leh/Ladakh area thought, nearly nothings grows on 3500m or up. I tested last year delicious tomatoes from 3.600m. So good. From Mangzul/Dehbrink to Dehbrink I completed the triangle at the 22.6.2018, only 3km, and maid my km 18.000 of the peace walk full. Kontact or comments Whatsapp: +30 698 0654542 Comments are closed. |
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