Ladakh

Going downhill I realized, no vegetation. ??? On the Kashmir side much more green. Deciduous forest and pine trees. Here nothing, here and there a bush. At the villages cultivated plants. This is a total different climate, kind of desert. Kashmir side until 3000m green, Ladakh side just plain. Only this little pass in between. Zoji La is also closed in winter, from December to February/March. Also on Ladakhi side the first villages are abandon in winter,  But 30km behind the pass people live there also in winter. Isolated from fresh vegetables and fruits or other goods.

People here speak very many different languages. For example in Thasgum the people speak ‚Shina‘, a language spoken by only 500 people. This language is not a written language. So at school they learn, ladaki, urdu, hindi and english, maybe even kashmiri.

The last 36 km from Thasgum to Kargil I decided during the day to go it all. Even though such a beautiful village after more than 20km could not stop me. First buddhist signs. The Dalai Lama was once in Chanigund to bless a place. But very very special. One steep hill side was completely green. Over and over with trees. Some 300 or 400 meters higher than the valley. I was established. Irrigated from a higher little river. I am sometimes curious, who had this wonderful idea. Often it’s just one person, who influences a village in a positiv or negativ way. And the forest kind of hangs on the mountain. Its steep. I witnessed also the influens of the people, if positiv thinking or negativ thinking in so many villages on my journey. And that is sometimes the influens of one shop keeper or imam/priest/teacher/thinker/….. And I guess, often this multiplicaters are not always aware of what they are doing for there society. Also people and athmosphere where beautiful but I continued the journey to Kargil. Some 100m later I met Maqsood who invited me in his home.

A little later I see a poster from Khomeini and Chameini at a pole beside the street. Shiia muslems are having the both presidents of Iran also as a religious leaders. I just think: tolerant India.

Before reaching the 2nd biggest place in Ladakh, Kargil, and kind of half way to Leh, crossroad also to the Zansgar range and valley, I was unexpected impressed by the gathering of the Drass river, which I am followed since 80 km and the Suru river, which came through Kargil from the south. There was such a power, when they  met and continued there way towards Parkistan. This river will meet soon after the north border the Indus, coming from the east. Wooow, I had to stay here for a long while, knowing I have maybe already someone waiting for me in Kargil.

Another surprise. Maqsood was already walking towards me, because his telefon was out of order and I would not been able to reach him. I love this kind of promises very much. So we walked the last 4 km together. 

Arriving exhausted at his home, a simple one room place. Situated in a half ready 2 or 3 floor house. The way to his room unsaved on a small 1m way without any handrail. And his room, what he sometimes shares with his brother is partly used as a kitchen, without airing the place at all. So the room is full of fungus. Also the blanket I should sit on seemed to be not the cleanest. I was standing in the room, unconciously not ready to sit down here, and consciously kind of arriving. But Maqsood and his brothers and friends where very kind and friendly, but often had not the concentration, to listen to my answer until I was finished, even though they had asked the questions. During my answer I was again attacked with new questions, so it was a bit breathless. Inner space – outer space. Room space – mind space. They also invited me to stay another night. First I agreed, because in need, but next morning I had to change my plans, I got some flea bites and when I was coming back from the toilett, the brother was enjoying a morning cigarette. So I could not enter the room. What I did not know then, I also got a big huge herpes there. That was still in process to show its full flower, nearly all my lower lip was and is – two weeks later – affected. So I said good bye.

Maqsood explained the day before that he plans to go to the Indian army. I was kind of happy to hear that, not, because I like someone to be in the army, but it showed, that he and his brother, who is serving at the police, that they are not against India in general, and that’s what I feel, since I am in Ladakh more. .. But then, during the evening, they also showed me two Muslim armed fighters in white clothes, and it was clear, that simpatised with this Muslim fighters. When I saw the picture on there smart phone, I said: These are not Muslims. Very irritated they looked at me and asked, why not? I said: I learned, and this is what Muslims tell me all the time, Islam is the most peaceful religion, so these guys can not be Muslims. They had to think. Do you want to wear guns from the Indian state at day time and fight for the Indian state and at night time you swop to another position? So crazy.

And I myself was also aware, by not staying in the village Chanigund, maybe not being mindful enough, a village where I felt warm and welcoming…… by not doing so, not staying there, to provocate or invite a situation for me, where there is no space. I give myself no space so ’no space‘ outside is arising. (See also the article ’space‘ which I wrote after leaving the brothers, some articles down)